Brake failure waiting to happen!

The kink in the pipe can clearly be seen

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It was inevitable that I would end up removing most, if not all, of the components from the front end of the car, (I never know when to stop) and its as well that I did as the brake pipe above was hidden under part of the chassis. I had always felt that the car should have given better braking power and I'm now wondering if this is the reason why it didn't. The brake pipe is very close to fracturing and I would guess that the bore is now about 20% of the "non-kinked" pipe. I know of others who have had problems with fractured brake pipes so am glad to have discovered this now.

4 Days of Nitromors, various wire brushes, and wire wool

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Having removed the mudguards, wheels, and suspension, I was able to do a proper job on the chassis and am close to finishing stripping all the red paint in preparation for a dose of POR15 (black). Although the chassis appeared to be well covered in paint, its surprising just how much rust there is under the paint. I have to admit that I've found this a very tedious job but another couple of hours should see it done and then I can start to treat the metal with an anti rust solution (Metal Ready), prior to the first coat of POR15. I'm not sure how many coats of paint there were on the chassis, but on average I've had to apply four coats of Nitromors to get back to the metal.

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I've removed the pedal box. which is particularly rusty, and in doing so realised that the chassis is drilled for different positions for the pedal box. Having rather stretched to reach the pedals in the past, I regard this as something of a bonus that will make future driving more comfortable.

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The steering column has received the "stripping" treatment too and I'm a little surprised that the only way to remove the bearing located near the steering wheel is to cut the steering column in half. Not perhaps the best solution!

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Roger